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Pruning & Training Fruit Trees
The early years of your tree's life should be used to build up a framework. This depends on your aims. Remove any fruit in the first year and for the first five years do not let it overfruit. Let the tree concentrate on vegetative growth. |
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There are various forms that fruit trees can be grown into depending on space and intentions. in the open bush trees are usually grown. There is also the spindlebush, where a centre leader is maintained. This is usually grown in commercial orchards. For restricted spaces the usual styles are espaliers and cordons for apples and pears, and fans for plums and cherries.
Bush trees
The aim is to produce a goblet shaped tree open in the centre above a clear stem. The height of clear stem varies depending on intentions and vigour of the rootstock. The 'maiden' trees supplied will either be feathered , with branches or unfeathered, without branches depending on the variety. For either type the stem must be reduced to:
Dwarf bush 0.6m (24")
Half standard 1.35m (4'6")
Standard 2m (6'6") - suitable for varieties on vigorous rootstocks.
If the tree has not reached the required height allow it to grow another year.
Whether a variety is feathered or unfeathered is explained under 'More details' for the variety in the Catalogue.
Feathered trees
Cut back the main stem to a side shoot at around the required height ensuring that there are two or three well placed side branches below it. Reduce these branches by two thirds to an outward facing bud. Remove all other branches from the stem. In the summer a number of laterals will be produced from the primary branches. In the winter select about four laterals on each primary. Reduce them and extension growth on the primary branch by up to half. Cut all branches not required as secondary branches back to four or five buds.
Unfeathered trees
After planting reduce the stem to the height depending on the type of bush tree you are planning to grow. Cut back to just above a bud using a sloping cut ensuring that there are some healthy buds below it.
The following winter chose the best three or four evenly spaced branches, ideally with wide angles to the main stem. wide angles mean stronger branches. Reduce these by half to an outward facing bud and remove the unwanted branches flush with the main stem.
During the summer a number of laterals will be produced from the primary branches. In the third winter select about four laterals on each primary. Reduce them and extension growth on the primary branch by up to half. Cut all branches not required as secondary branches back to four or five buds.
From now on the tree should be bearing fruit and pruning becomes lighter. Remove any growth crowding the centre of the tree where poor quality fruit will be produced.
Pruning times
The above pruning process applies to all fruit trees. However the timings vary. Apples and Pears winter prune as detailed. Prune Plums early spring and summer to guard againest silverleaf disease. Cherries should be pruned early spring at bud burst to prevent bacterial canker. |
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Cordons
For small gardens, againest walls and fences cordons are ideal, taking up little space. Each tree becomes a trunk with short side branches on which fruit forms. If you are interested in ordering trees to grow as cordons make a note of this on your order form and we will choose the most appropriate trees.
Before planting attach lines of wire 30cm apart starting at 60cm above the soil to the wall or fence. Plant 'maiden' trees at 45 degrees with the graft union uppermost 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart, about 15cm away from the fixed structure to allow for growth, tying them to long canes attached to the horizontal wires. |
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After planting reduce any side branches to four buds. In the first summer remove any developing fruits. During the winter side shoots to three buds. If few side shoots have formed cut back the leader by half, this wil encourage side shoots.
From now on cordons are summer pruned from late July in the south to late August in the north. Reduce any shoots 25cm (9") or longer back to three leaves if arising from the main stem, or one leaf if coming from last summers branching. Shoots less than 25cm at this stage can be reduced in October. Do not prune any shoots that do not reach 25cm, they may well have fruit buds. allow fruiting to increase gradually as the tree develops. |
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Espaliers
Like cordons espaliers are ideal for walls and fences. They can also be developed to create a boundary within a garden. Plant 'maiden' trees, they are ideal for training. If you are interested in ordering trees to grow as espaliers make a note of this on your order form and we will choose the most appropriate trees. Plant 3.6-5m (12-15ft) apart if more than one is to be grown and about 15cm (6") away from any fixed structure. In the winter of planting a horizontal support wire is attached to the wall or fence about 30cm (12") above soil level. The tree is cut back to a bud 5cm above the support wire. |
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During the early summer the shoot from the uppermost bud is allowed to continue vertically supported by a cane while those from two opposite buds immediately below are trained in to form the first tier of branches. At first they are tied to canes at 45 degrees, later brought down horizontal to the bottom wire and their permanent position. Any other shoots that develop are cut back to three leaves in June or if too low are removed altogether.
In the second winter put in place another horizontal support wire up to 45cm (18") above the lower tier and prune the verticl shoot to a bud 5cm above it. The whole process is repeated in the second summer on the second tier.
If, when planting the 'maiden' tree, there are strong side shoots around the height of the wire retain two to start the first tier, cut back any others and reduce the main stem to about 60 cm (24"), the height of the second tier. In the first summer treat the side branches and new shoots to form the second tier as explained above.
The process is repeated for as many years as the number of tiers required. If one shoot grows stronger than another lower the strong shoot to the horizontal leaving the weaker one to continue more vertical. Once growth has evened out tie the other down.
Laterals will develop on the side shoots. These should be summer prunedlike cordons. allow trees to fruit gradually, each year allowing more fruit to develop. When horizontal branches have reached their extremity cut back to a leaf or a lateral.
Step overs are just single tier espaliers and are grown in the same way but without the central upright shoot. They can edge a vegetable plot or be grown next to a path without hindering access or shading other plants. |
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